What to eat in Canada — and what it costs
It’s late August in Ottawa, and the air has that thick, sweet end-of-summer weight to it. I’m standing in the middle of the ByWard Market, the cobblestones still damp from a passing drizzle, and the smell of fried dough and roasting coffee is pulling me in every direction. Farmers are heaving crates of Sweet Corn and blushing peaches onto their stalls, and a kid walks by clutching a paper-wrapped Beavertail the size of her head, dragging a trail of cinnamon sugar behind her. This is the city where I grew up, where I’ve eaten my way through every neighbourhood from Hintonburg to Kanata, and I’m here to tell you exactly what to eat — and what it’ll cost you — in Canada’s capital.
Start With the Classics: Shawarma and Beavertails
Let’s get the two icons out of the way first, because you’ll smell them before you see them. The Beavertail — that flat, hand-stretched fried dough pastry shaped like, well, a beaver’s tail — is a Canadian rite of passage. At the ByWard Market, the original stand still slaps down fresh dough, fries it in front of you, and drowns it in cinnamon sugar or chocolate-hazelnut. It’ll set you back around C$7 to C$8, and yes, it’s worth every calorie. Go early on a weekday to avoid the weekend crowds.
Then there’s shawarma. Ottawa doesn’t get enough credit for this, but it’s the unofficial city food. Some of the best places are tucked into strip malls, but you can get a solid chicken shawarma plate or wrap for around C$13 to C$16 in the Market or along Rideau Street. The garlic sauce is non-negotiable — if they ask if you want it, say yes, and then ask for extra.
Where to Eat: From Laid-Back to Fancy
For a proper sit-down meal without breaking the bank, you’ve got options. Start with Chez Lucien — a tiny, dimly lit French-Canadian bistro in the Market that’s been a local institution for years. Grab a pint of domestic beer (about C$8) and their steak frites; you’ll leave happy and only mildly poorer. If you want something with a view, head to Tavern On The Hill, perched right near the Rideau Canal with a patio overlooking the water — perfect for a summer evening. A mid-range three-course meal for two will run you around C$100 without drinks, so it’s a treat, but not a splurge.
For a bigger-ticket dinner, hit JOEY Rideau — it’s part of a chain, but the rooftop patio is worth it. Or, if you’re in the mood for something more local, La Nhau Viet Kitchen & Bar in Hintonburg serves up some of the best Vietnamese food in the city, with pho and banh mi that’ll transport you straight to Hanoi. And don’t sleep on The Porch, a cozy spot in the Glebe that does comfort food right — think buttermilk fried chicken and seasonal veggies.
Breakfast and Coffee: Fueling Up Like a Local
Coffee culture here is serious. Forget the big chains — head to Little Victories Coffee Roasters on Elgin Street for a flat white that’ll ruin you for any other café. A cappuccino or regular coffee will cost you about C$4 to C$6, and it’s worth it. In Westboro, Arlington Five is the spot for a quiet morning with a book and a perfectly baked croissant. Wise Town Cafe in Hintonburg has a funky, artsy vibe and excellent breakfast sandwiches, while Mocha Mirage Café in Sandy Hill is a student favourite — cheap, cheerful, and strong coffee. If you’re near the National Gallery, pop into Art House for a latte and a slice of cake; the patio is a hidden gem.
For a full breakfast, you can’t go wrong with a classic Canadian diner — expect to pay around C$18 to C$25 for a hearty meal like eggs, bacon, hash browns, and toast. That’s the standard “inexpensive restaurant” price range here, and it’s honest.
Today’s Special: Eat Your Way Through a Festival
If you’re reading this on the weekend, you’re in luck. The Taste of Ottawa – Festival of Flavours is happening right now at the Cohere Centre (4899 Uplands Drive) — a two-day global food and culture festival with an artisan market. It’s the perfect way to sample dishes from every corner of the world in one afternoon. And just down the road, the Capital Ukrainian Festival is wrapping up at Lansdowne Park and the Horticulture Building, with a free marketplace and some of the best pyrohy (perogies) you’ll have outside of your own grandma’s kitchen (if your grandma is Ukrainian).
Spending time in ByWard? You might also catch the tail end of the Ottawa Miniature Gallery’s Pride exhibition in the NAC’s Atrium O’Brien — it’s free, it’s tiny, and it’s delightful. And if you’re here for the Labour Day long weekend (it’s just eight days away), the city will be buzzing with one last summer hurrah.
The Grocery Store Reality Check
Eating out is pricey, but so is eating in. At the market, a litre of milk costs about C$3.30 and a 500-gram loaf of bread runs around C$4.20. If you’re staying in an Airbnb or a hotel with a kitchenette, you can stretch your budget by grabbing breakfast supplies from a local grocer. But honestly, with a city this edible, you’ll want to spend your money on restaurants.
Budgeting for Your Trip: The Real Numbers
Let’s talk dollars and sense. A typical budget for a day of eating in Ottawa might look like this: C$5 coffee, C$14 shawarma wrap for lunch, a C$8 pint in the afternoon, and a C$50 dinner at a mid-range spot — that’s about C$77. Add in a Beavertail and you’re at C$85. Not bad for a day of stuffing your face in one of Canada’s prettiest cities. Just remember: if you’re taking transit, an adult fare is about C$4.10 or a monthly pass is C$138.50, so factor that into your total.
Final Bites: Where to Go, What to Skip
If you only do one thing, do the ByWard Market early in the morning, when the cobblestones are still quiet and the stall owners are setting up. Grab a coffee from one of the nearby cafés, a Beavertail for the road, and wander down to the Rideau Canal locks. Then, take a stroll through the Glebe or Westboro — both are perfect for a lazy afternoon, and you’ll find plenty of spots to stop for a snack. Hintonburg is a must for any food lover, and Kanata might be tech central, but it’s also got some hidden gems for a quick bite after a day in the suburbs.
Ottawa is a city of government buildings and quiet parks, but its food scene is loud, diverse, and unapologetically delicious. So skip the tour bus, follow your nose, and eat your way through the capital — you won’t regret it.
Frequently asked questions
What is the most iconic Canadian food to try in Ottawa?
The Beavertail — a fried-dough pastry covered in cinnamon sugar — is a must-try, especially at the ByWard Market where it costs around C$7–8.
How much should I budget for a day of eating in Ottawa?
A typical day might cost around C$77–85 per person, including coffee, a shawarma wrap, a pint, and a sit-down dinner.
What are some must-visit local restaurants in Ottawa?
Try Chez Lucien for French-Canadian pub fare, Tavern On The Hill for canal views, and La Nhau Viet Kitchen & Bar in Hintonburg for Vietnamese.
Are there any food festivals happening in late August in Ottawa?
Yes, the Taste of Ottawa – Festival of Flavours runs on August 29–30 at the Cohere Centre, and the Capital Ukrainian Festival wraps up at Lansdowne Park the same weekend.
What is the average cost of a meal at an inexpensive restaurant in Ottawa?
An inexpensive restaurant meal costs around C$18–25, while a mid-range three-course dinner for two is about C$100.
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