What to eat in Panama — and what it costs

By Javier Moreno, Panama host 2 September 2026 6 min read

A vibrant dish of ceviche served on a white plate with colorful garnishes, offering fresh flavors. — Photo by Thibault Luycx on Pexels

It is a humid ninety percent humidity morning in Panama City, and the air feels heavy enough to wear. You are standing on Avenida Balboa, the breeze off the bay doing little to cut through the heat, when the smell hits you: fried yuca, roasting garlic, and the sharp tang of lime. This is not the polished dining scene of Punta Pacifica or the rooftop cocktails of Casco Viejo. This is the real pulse of the isthmus, found in the shade of bus stops and inside unassuming fondas where the rice is always white, the beans are always black, and the prices are laughable compared to what you pay back home.

If you think Panama is just a transit hub for cruise ships and canal transits, you are missing the culinary soul of Central America. The food here is a melting pot—African, Spanish, Caribbean, and indigenous Guna influences all simmering together. I am going to take you beyond the tourist traps. We will talk about what to eat, exactly where to find it, and how little it will cost you. Note that while we use Panamanian balboas (PAB), they are pegged 1:1 with the US dollar, so keep your cash handy.

The Holy Trinity: Sancocho, Rice & Beans, and Ceviche

You cannot leave Panama without trying sancocho. It is the national soup, a thick, comforting broth made with chicken, ñame (a local tuber similar to taro), yuca, corn, and cilantro. It is eaten for breakfast, lunch, or when you need to recover from a night out. In a local fonda or cafeteria, a bowl of this comfort food will cost you about PAB 3–6. That is roughly the price of a coffee in New York. For the authentic experience, head to Café de la Calle near the Mercado de Mariscos or any crowded spot in El Cangrejo. The broth is rich, often served with a side of hot sauce and avocado.

Then there is the daily staple: arroz con pollo (chicken with rice) or arroz con guandú (rice with pigeon peas). These are not fancy dishes; they are life fuel. A “comida corriente”—a set meal with rice, beans, meat, and plantains at an inexpensive local eatery—will run you between PAB 3 and PAB 6. It is filling, salty, and perfect before a day of walking.

For something sharper, seek out corvina ceviche. Fresh sea bass marinated in lime juice with onions, cilantro, and peppers. You can find this at the Mercado de Mariscos, the waterfront fish market on Avenida Balboa. Grab a cup of ceviche from one of the stalls for about PAB 2–3. It is raw, cold, and electric. If you want to sit down, the upstairs restaurants at the market offer full meals, but the street-side cups are the true local ritual.

Street Food Snacks: Carimañolas and Empanadas

Panama’s street food is deep-fried, savory, and addictive. The star is the carimañola. Unlike an empanada, which uses dough, a carimañola is made of mashed yuca dough stuffed with seasoned ground beef, then deep-fried until golden. It is crispy on the outside, soft on the inside, and usually served with a spicy ají sauce. You will find these sold by vendors everywhere, but if you want a dedicated shop, look for La Pulpería – Casco Antiguo in the historic district. Expect to pay around PAB 5 for a plate of them. They are expensive for street food, but the quality and hygiene standards here are higher than the average corner cart.

Another must-try is the empanada de viento (fried pork empanada) or the simple cheese empanada. These are ubiquitous. Walk through Via Argentina in El Cangrejo, and you will see bakeries spilling onto the sidewalk. Grab a fresh pair of empanadas and a coffee for under PAB 5 total. The coffee itself, from a local roaster like Cabrera Coffee Brew House or Mavi Coffee, costs about PAB 3. It is robust, dark, and pairs perfectly with the fried dough.

Dining Up: From Fonda to Fine Dining

As you move from street corners to sit-down restaurants, the prices rise, but Panama remains affordable by global standards. A mid-range restaurant main course with waiter service typically runs PAB ~20–22. In Casco Viejo, the UNESCO-listed colonial old town, you will find some of the best dining in the city. Restaurante El Enemigo is a favorite among locals and expats alike, known for its creative twists on traditional Panamanian cuisine using local ingredients like coconut and seafood. It is pricey for Panama, but the ambiance and execution are world-class.

If you want a more casual but elevated experience, try farmhouse | Obarrio. Located in the modern Obarrio district, it offers a farm-to-table concept that highlights local produce. It is a great spot to watch the sunset over the Cinta Costera. For a budget-friendly alternative, La Pulpería – Casco Antiguo also serves excellent prepared meals at reasonable prices, bridging the gap between street food and restaurant dining.

Don’t forget the drinks. A local beer, like Balboa or Cortés, in a bar will cost around PAB 5. In Casco Viejo, rooftop bars charge more, but the view of the modern skyline against the colonial ruins is worth the extra few dollars. If you are into specialty coffee, Geisha Experience offers some of the world’s most expensive coffees, sourced directly from Panamanian highlands. It is an investment, but for a coffee lover, it is a pilgrimage.

Where to Eat: Neighborhood Guide

Casco Viejo: The heart of tourism and dining. Cobblestone streets, rooftop bars, and galleries. Great for dinner and nightlife, but pricier. Walk here during the day to avoid the midday heat and afternoon rains.

El Cangrejo: Bohemian-central. Home to Via Argentina’s restaurant strip. Popular with younger expats and digital nomads. Best for casual lunches, bakeries, and microbreweries like La Rana Dorada.

Avenida Balboa / Bella Vista: Waterfront boulevard. Great for jogging paths and ocean-view towers. The Mercado de Mariscos is here, making it the go-to for fresh seafood ceviche.

Costa del Este: Affluent eastern suburb. Modern malls and international schools. Good for family dining and chain restaurants, but less character.

Practical Tips for Eating in Panama

Transportation is key to saving money. The Metro is incredibly cheap—PAB 0.35 per ride. Use it to get to Mercado de Mariscos or across the city. Taxis negotiate their fares, so agree on a price before getting in. Uber is reliable and usually costs PAB 3–5 for short rides across town.

Safety is generally good, but stick to well-lit areas. Avoid walking between Casco Viejo and the modern city at night; take an Uber instead. Petty theft is the main risk, so keep your phone and wallet secure.

Weather-wise, September is rainy season. Afternoon downpours are common. Plan your outdoor eating for the morning or early evening. The heat is intense, so hydrate with water or local coconut water.

Panama’s food scene is diverse, affordable, and deeply rooted in history. From a PAB 3 bowl of sancocho to a PAB 20 dinner in Casco Viejo, every bite tells a story of the isthmus. Eat well, stay hydrated, and enjoy the flavors of Panama.

Frequently asked questions

What is the cheapest thing to eat in Panama City?

The cheapest meals are 'comidas corrientes' at local fondas, costing around PAB 3–6. A single carimañola or empanada from a street vendor is even cheaper, often under PAB 2.

Is it safe to eat street food in Panama City?

Yes, street food is generally safe if you choose busy stalls with high turnover. Stick to freshly fried items like carimañolas and avoid pre-cut fruits that have been sitting out in the heat.

How much does a typical dinner cost in Casco Viejo?

Sit-down meals in Casco Viejo range from PAB 15–25 for main courses. Rooftop bars and fine dining establishments will be higher, often exceeding PAB 40 per person.

What is the best place to try corvina ceviche?

The Mercado de Mariscos on Avenida Balboa is the top spot. You can buy cups of ceviche from the stalls downstairs for about PAB 2–3, or dine at the restaurants upstairs.

Do I need to tip in Panama?

Tipping is appreciated but not as strict as in the US. A 10% tip is standard for good service in restaurants. For street food or cafes, rounding up is sufficient.

Top attractions