A first-timer’s guide to Cuba

The heat hits you like a wall the moment you step out of José Martí airport — 34°C with a feel of 38°C, even under a grey overcast sky. It’s August in Havana, mango season, and the streets are a riot of sweet rot and exhaust fumes. But here’s what you notice first, before the colonial facades or the sea: the low thrum of generators, the hum of conversations spilling from rooftops, the families stretched out on the Malecón seawall at midnight just to catch a breeze. This is Cuba in 2026 — a country of immense beauty and immense strain, and it will be unlike anywhere you’ve ever been. Let me be your friend in Havana, the one who tells you what you really need to know before you land.

When to come and how long to stay

The “best” time to visit Cuba is generally November to April, when the heat is less punishing and the humidity drops. But if you come in summer, as many do, you’ll find a quieter, rawer Cuba — fewer tourists, more local life, and the unforgettable drama of those blackout nights. In 2026, Havana is experiencing prolonged daily power cuts of 2 to 6 hours, and the city has adapted: people sleep on balconies, rooftops, and the Malecón. You should take this into account. Pack a power bank, a flashlight, and patience. If you come in August, you’ll be rewarded with mangoes and a front-row seat to the resilience of this city.

How long should you stay? For a first-timer, I’d say seven to ten days. That gives you three or four days in Havana, a day trip to Viñales — about three hours west, where you can see the mogotes limestone peaks and visit tobacco farms — and a day or two at the beach in Playas del Este (just east of the city). If you have more time, push further afield to Trinidad or Santiago, but don’t try to see the whole island in a week. Cuba rewards slow travel.

Getting around: almendrones, taxis, and buses

You’ll quickly learn the rhythm of Cuban streets. The classic cars you see everywhere are not just for tourists — they’re the heart of the public transport system. Almendrones, as the shared taxis are called, run fixed routes across the city for about 10 to 20 CUP per trip (20 CUP if you cross the tunnel). It’s the cheapest way to move around, and an experience in itself. Wave one down, shout your destination, and hop in. If you prefer a private taxi, expect to negotiate — a short ride will cost you around 900 to 2,200 CUP, depending on distance and your bargaining skill.

For longer trips, consider renting a car with a driver for the day — though be prepared for fuel shortages and occasional breakdowns. The public bus network, MetroBus, exists and is cheap, but it’s crowded, unpredictable, and often subject to route changes. The Viaja+ app is supposed to let you pay for buses digitally, but check with a local before relying on it — in my experience, it’s often more hassle than it’s worth.

Money: dollars, pesos, and the two-tier reality

Here’s the thing you need to understand about money in Cuba: there’s the official currency (the Cuban peso, CUP) and then there’s the dollarized informal economy that runs alongside it. The official rate is about 24 CUP per US dollar, but on the street, you’ll get closer to 445 CUP per dollar. As a tourist, you’ll use both. For everyday things — a coffee, a slice of street pizza, an almendron fare — you’ll use CUP. A cup of espresso at a mid-range hotel café will cost around 100 to 150 CUP. A street pizza slice is 110 to 220 CUP. A plate of comida criolla (rice, beans, and pork or chicken) at a local cafeteria sets you back 700 to 1,300 CUP.

But here’s where the two-tier system bites: a mid-range paladar (a private restaurant) will charge you around 3,000 to 4,300 CUP for a lobster or ropa vieja dish. That might not sound like much in dollars — under US$10 — but it equals a month’s salary for the average Cuban. So spend sensibly, tip generously when you can, and never flaunt your cash.

Bring cash — preferably euros or Canadian dollars to avoid the 10% penalty on US dollars at official exchange. Cards are increasingly accepted, but the MLC (freely convertible currency) system is complex and you’ll need a Cuban phone number to use Transfermóvil or EnZona. ATMs are unreliable. Keep a mix of small and large denomination notes, and carry your money in more than one place.

The practical essentials: visa, SIM, and safety

Since July 2025, the old paper tourist card is gone. You must apply for a Cuban e-visa online at evisacuba.cu at least a few days before you fly. It costs US$50, is processed in about 72 hours, and is valid for 90 days, extendable another 90. Within seven days of arrival, don’t forget to fill out the free D’Viajeros form (dviajeros.mitrans.gob.cu) to get a QR code you’ll show at immigration. You also need proof of medical insurance — if your flight doesn’t include it, buy a quick policy from ASISTUR at the airport upon arrival.

For your phone, buy a Cubacel Tur SIM at the airport or at an ETECSA office — around 10 GB for 30 days, using your passport. It’ll be slow, and some US services might be blocked, but it’s enough for maps and WhatsApp. Public Wi-Fi spots exist (Parque Central, hotel lobbies) with NAUTA cards for about 25 CUP per hour.

Safety-wise, violent crime is rare. Your real hassles are taxi overcharging, jineteros (hustlers who’ll try to sell you cigars or guide you somewhere), and counterfeit “Cohiba” cigars. Politely say “no, gracias” and walk on. Always agree on the taxi fare before you get in — this one habit will save you endless headaches.

Where to eat, drink, and be merry

Now for the fun part. In Habana Vieja, you’ll find the colonial splendor of four plazas and a labyrinth of museums. For an excellent lunch, walk into Los Mercaderes or La Esquina de Cuba — both serve solid Cuban staples. For something more refined, head to Sibarita Habana in Centro Habana, near the famous paladar La Guarida (which is still the gold standard for atmospheric rooftop dining). In Vedado, don’t miss Fábrica de Arte Cubano — a converted oil factory that’s part gallery, part concert hall, part bar. It’s the beating heart of Havana’s contemporary art scene.

For coffee, try Café El Dandy or Cafe Arcangel in Old Havana. For a sunset mojito, you can’t beat the terrace at Hotel Nacional de Cuba — a 1930s grand dame that’s hosted everyone from Frank Sinatra to Fidel Castro. If you want to experience the city like a local, buy a cold Cristal beer (around 300 to 600 CUP in a bar) and sit on the Malecón with the fishermen and the lovers.

What I wish you knew before you came

First, be flexible. The blackouts are real and will affect everything — from your hotel’s air conditioning to the restaurant’s ability to cook. Bring a headlamp and a book. Second, do not try to do everything. Havana has more than 900 buildings in its historic core, but you don’t need to see all of them. Choose a neighborhood each day: Habana Vieja for history, Centro Habana for raw authentic street life, Vedado for culture, Miramar for the city’s best paladares, and Playa / Playas del Este for a beach day.

Third, learn a bit of Spanish. It will open doors, literally — residents will invite you into their homes, point you to the best corner pizza stand, or let you join their domino game. Fourth, pack light but smart: lightweight clothes, sturdy shoes, a hat, sunscreen (you can buy it there, but it’s often overpriced), and a refillable water bottle. Bottled water is cheap and widely available.

Finally, remember why you came. Cuba is not a theme park; it’s a living, breathing country in a moment of profound change and hardship. Travel with empathy. Stay in a casa particular (a licensed homestay) rather than a hotel — not only will you get an authentic experience, but you’ll be directly supporting a local family. And when you see those families sleeping on the roof because the power’s out, wave. They’ll wave back. That’s Cuba.