A first-timer’s guide to Iceland

By Katrín Jónsdóttir, Iceland host 18 September 2026 6 min read

Vibrant aerial view of Reykjavik, Iceland, showcasing colorful rooftops and ocean backdrop under a clear sky. — Photo by Susanne Jutzeler, suju-foto on Pexels

The air hits you first. It is not just cold; it is a damp, Atlantic chill that slips past your collar the moment you step off the plane at Keflavík. In mid-September, Reykjavík is holding its breath between summer and winter. The evenings are darkening again, the first dusting of snow has appeared on the Esjan mountains, and the city is buzzing with a specific kind of autumn energy. This is the turn of the season—the start of northern lights hunting and the rural sheep round-ups (réttir). If you are arriving now, or planning to for the first time, you need more than just a camera. You need to understand how this small island actually works.

When to Come and How Long to Stay

Iceland is a country of extremes, but September offers a sweet spot. The tourist crowds have thinned from the August peak, yet the infrastructure is fully open. However, the weather turns fast. Today, the forecast shows temperatures around 7–10°C with light drizzle, feeling closer to 7°C. You must pack layers—wool is not a suggestion here, it is a survival tactic. The locals wear lopapeysa (traditional wool knitwear) for a reason: it keeps you warm even when wet.

For duration, aim for at least ten days if you want to see the Ring Road, or five to seven days if you stick to the South Coast and Golden Circle. First-timers often try to rush. Don’t. The driving is slow, the roads are narrow, and the light changes every hour. In September, daylight shrinks rapidly. You might only have six hours of usable light by late October, so plan your drives early in the day.

Getting Around Without Losing Your Mind

If you are staying in Reykjavík, you do not need a car immediately. The capital region is compact, and the public transit system, Strætó, is efficient. As of January 2026, cash is no longer accepted on buses. You must use the Klappið app, buy a Klapp card, or tap your contactless bank card directly on the reader. A single adult fare is roughly 690 ISK (about $5). If you are moving around daily, the 30-day pass is about 11,600 ISK (roughly $85), which pays for itself quickly.

For exploring outside the city, renting a car is essential. Book early. In peak seasons, prices spike hard. Be aware that a labour dispute involving transport and aviation has been dominating local news recently; while flights are operating, keep an eye on Iceland Monitor for any sudden disruptions to rental availability. Always check vedur.is (the Icelandic Met Office) before heading out. Weather warnings are not optional reading—they are safety instructions.

Money, Costs, and the Cashless Reality

Iceland is one of Europe’s priciest capitals. The currency is the Icelandic króna (ISK). With inflation hovering around 4.1%, prices feel sharp. The economy is strong—GDP per capita is nearly $98,000—but that wealth translates to high costs for visitors. You will find that a modest meal at a food hall like Hlemmur Mathöll or Grandi Mathöll runs about 2,500–3,500 ISK ($22). A cup of coffee? Expect to pay around 700 ISK ($5). Even a simple hot dog, the famous pylsa from Bæjarins Beztu, costs roughly 600 ISK ($4).

Accommodation adds up. A mid-range hotel room can cost between 22,000 and 30,000 ISK ($190) per night, especially if you arrive in August. Rents in the city centre have climbed about 7% annually, reflecting the broader housing pressure. The good news? Iceland is nearly cashless. You will rarely need physical money. Bring a debit card with no foreign transaction fees. If you are staying long-term, opening an account with Landsbankinn, Arion Bank, or Íslandsbanki is straightforward once you have your kennitala (personal ID number), but for tourists, cards are king.

What First-Timers Wish They’d Known

Here is the practical stuff they don’t tell you in the brochures. First, showering before entering geothermal pools is mandatory. It is not a hygiene rule; it is a cultural law. Violate it, and you will be asked to leave. Second, respect the land. Do not drive off-road. The vegetation takes decades to recover. Third, learn to say takks (thanks) and bjór (beer). Locals appreciate the effort.

Navigating Reykjavík itself is easier if you know the districts. Stay in Miðborg (101) if you want to be in the heart of Laugavegur shopping street, near Hallgrímskirkja church and Harpa concert hall. Prefer quiet? Vesturbær offers residential calm near the Old Harbour. For families, Laugardalur is the green heart of the city, home to the massive Laugardalslaug pool complex and the zoo. If you want design and food, Grandi is the redeveloped dockland hub, hosting venues like FlyOver Iceland and trendy eateries.

Also, note that EU roaming rules do not apply here. Buy a local SIM at the 10-11 store in Keflavík airport or use an eSIM from Airalo before you land. Síminn offers the best nationwide coverage, while Nova is often cheaper for data within the city.

Current Events and Cultural Pulse

Travel is never static. Right now, Reykjavík is alive with culture. The VAKA Folk Arts Festival is filling venues like the Kópavogur Cultural Centre and Edda House with concerts and craft markets. The Reykjavík International Film Festival (RIFF) is also underway, bringing cinema lovers from across the globe. If you are interested in science, European Researchers’ Night at Laugardalshöll offers free hands-on demos from every university in the country.

Politically, the mood is stable but engaged. There is currently a diplomatic row with the US over a map posted by President Trump, which many Icelanders found insulting. It is a topic of conversation in pubs and offices alike, reflecting a proud, independent national identity. Meanwhile, tourism remains the economic engine alongside renewable-energy-heavy industry. Enjoy the whales watching boats leaving the Old Harbour, but remember that behind the beauty is a resilient society navigating its own modern challenges.

Frequently asked questions

Is Iceland expensive for tourists?

Yes, Iceland is one of Europe's most expensive countries. Expect to pay around 2,500–3,500 ISK ($22) for a meal at a food hall and 600 ISK ($4) for a hot dog. Budget carefully, as accommodation and dining costs are significantly higher than in mainland Europe.

Do I need cash in Reykjavík?

No, Iceland is nearly cashless. You can pay with a debit or credit card almost everywhere, including on Strætó buses since June 2025. Carry a card with no foreign transaction fees for the best experience.

How do I get around Reykjavík without a car?

Use the Strætó bus network. You can pay using the Klappið app, a Klapp card, or by tapping a contactless bank card on board. Single fares are approximately 690 ISK ($5).

What should I pack for September in Iceland?

Pack for variable weather. Temperatures are often 7–10°C with rain. Layering is essential, including waterproof outerwear and wool garments like the traditional lopapeysa, which retains warmth even when damp.

Do I need a visa to visit Iceland?

Iceland is in the Schengen Area. Visitors from the US, UK, and EU/EEA can enter visa-free for up to 90 days in any 180-day period. Longer stays require a residence permit via the Directorate of Immigration.

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