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Culture & Etiquette

Botswana etiquette: the dos and don’ts

Colorful African beaded crafts hanging in a souvenir shop, showcasing traditional artistry.
Photo by Magda Ehlers on Pexels

Late August in Gaborone is the tail end of the dry winter: crisp mornings that melt into warm, dust-hazy afternoons under a hard blue sky, with the city shaking off the chill and gearing up for the first spring rains. You’ll see jacarandas starting to hint at their October bloom along the Main Mall, and hear the low hum of combis rattling through the blocks. But before you dive into the rhythm of the city, let’s talk about how to move through it with grace. Botswana is a country where courtesy is a quiet currency, and knowing the unwritten rules will open more doors than any map.

Greetings: The First Handshake Matters

In Botswana, a greeting isn’t a formality—it’s a sign that you see the person in front of you. The standard is a handshake, but don’t rush it. Use your right hand, make eye contact, and offer a warm “Dumela” (hello) followed by “Rra” (sir) or “Mma” (ma’am). For example, “Dumela rra” to a man, “Dumela mma” to a woman. If you’re meeting a group, shake each person in turn, starting from the eldest or most senior—skipping someone is noticed.

When you’re introduced, ask “O tsogile jang?” (how did you wake?) in the morning, or “O kae?” (how are you?) later in the day. The reply is usually “Ke tsogile sentle” (I woke well) or “Ke teng” (I’m here). Don’t be surprised if the greeting feels longer than a quick nod; it’s considered impolite to jump straight into business or requests. Take the time to ask about their family, their day, the weather—it’s not small talk, it’s the foundation of trust.

One thing that surprises many visitors: use both hands when giving or receiving something, even money or a menu. It’s a subtle sign of respect. And if someone offers you a handshake with both hands or a soft touch on the elbow, that’s a warm welcome—return it naturally.

Dining Manners: Eat, Share, and Never Forget the Porridge

If you’re invited to a local home—and you likely will be, as Batswana are famously hospitable—bring a small gift: bread, fruit, or a soft drink. It’s not about expense but about showing you understand reciprocity. When you sit down to eat, wait to be shown your place, and always wait for the host or eldest person to start before you dig in. Meals are often communal, with everyone sharing from central bowls—use your right hand to take food, never the left, which is reserved for hygiene.

The national dish you’ll meet is seswaa: slow-pounded, salted beef, served with bogobe (a thick sorghum or maize porridge) and morogo (wild greens). Eat it with your hands if you’re comfortable—take a small ball of bogobe, dip it into the seswaa, and pop it in. It’s messy and wonderful. If you’re at a restaurant, a plate of seswaa with pap and phaletse will set you back about P70 to P210 (roughly $10), and it’s worth every thebe. Don’t be afraid to ask for a spoon if you’re unsure; Batswana are gracious about teaching visitors.

When you’re done, place your utensils together on the plate and say “Ke itumetse” (I’m satisfied) or simply “Thank you.” Leaving food is sometimes seen as wasteful, so take modest portions and go back for more if you’re hungry. And if you’re offered a drink—water, tea, or a local St. Louis lager (around P25–P32)—accept it, even if you just sip it. Refusing outright can seem standoffish.

Dress: Respect Heat, Dust, and Tradition

Gaborone is a city of contrasts—sharp-dressed bankers in the New CBD and artists in flowing cottons in “The Village” at Extension 15. The rule of thumb: dress modestly, but don’t overdress. For men, a collared shirt and trousers are fine for most occasions; women, a dress or skirt below the knee, or loose trousers, is respectful. Shorts are okay at casual spots like Mokolodi Nature Reserve or the Gaborone Game Reserve, but save them for weekends. In more traditional settings—a kgotla meeting, a ceremony, or a rural visit—cover shoulders and knees. You’ll also want to carry a light jacket for those 12°C mornings; by midday it’ll be 23°C, so layers are your friend.

A note on hats: take them off when entering a house, church, or any formal building. And while Botswana is quite relaxed, showing your shoulders or midriff in this context might draw unnecessary stares. When in doubt, look around and mirror what others are wearing—you’ll never feel overdressed in a simple, neat outfit.

Tipping and Money: Where to Give, What to Pay

Tipping is appreciated but not compulsory. In restaurants, 10% is standard if service is good—though a mid-range three-course meal is only about P200 per person (around $15), so a little goes a long way. For taxi drivers, rounding up the fare is enough; a short special taxi ride from the CBD to the blocks will be around P36, so give P40 and don’t expect change. Porters and guides at places like Mokolodi (a game drive with rhino tracking) will appreciate P20–P50, depending on the service.

Always carry small change in pula—the local currency (about P13.56 per US$). Vendors at the Main Mall or the Bus Rank won’t always have change for a P100, and ATMs often give out large notes. You’ll find that a cappuccino costs around P30, a combi ride P9, and a basic lunch with a drink P80–P150. Gaborone is one of the cheaper SADC capitals—roughly 38% of US price levels—so you’ll feel your money stretch, but don’t flaunt it. Keep wallets in front pockets, especially in busy spots like the bus rank or craft markets.

The Small Customs That Count

Here are the subtle things that make you a ‘considerable’ visitor:

  • Left hand rule: Never wave, point, or pass anything with your left hand—it’s a sign of disrespect. Use the right hand, or both hands.
  • Ask before taking photos: Especially of people, homes, or cultural sites like the Three Dikgosi Monument. It’s not just polite—it’s expected.
  • Remove your shoes when entering a mosque (like the ISKCON temple in Phase 2) or someone’s home if they ask. Look for a pile of shoes at the door.
  • Naming conventions: Use titles and surnames until invited to use first names. Batswana are informal by nature, but the initial formality is a sign of respect.
  • On the road: If you’re driving, and locals will wave you through at an intersection, that’s a courtesy, not a rule—return the nod. Pedestrians often cross mid-road in the Blocks; be extra alert near traffic lights in the CBD, as phone snatching can happen.
  • Don’t discuss politics too casually. In October 2024, Botswana saw the historic end of the BDP’s 58-year rule, and the mood is celebratory but sensitive. Listen more than you speak—it’s a proud, rare moment of democratic transfer.
  • Respect the land: When you’re out at Kgale Hill (watch for baboons, go with others) or the Gaborone Game Reserve, take your litter with you. Batswana are proud of their clean, safe city—the game reserve is a working one, just 5 km from the CBD, and it’s a treat to see zebra and ostrich against the skyline.

Final Thoughts on Being a Guest

Gaborone is a city that welcomes strangers but rewards those who make an effort. You’ll find that a simple “Dumela” to a combi driver or a vendor at the Bus Rank (before the ongoing evictions there, many have moved near Mowana Park) opens conversations. The city has a rhythm—calm, measured, unhurried. In a world of fast travel, Botswana asks you to slow down. If you’re here for the Maitisong Festival at Maru-a-Pula, the Logang! Rokang! Takang! exhibition at Alliance Française, or just to explore Mokolodi’s rhino trails, carry with you the local maxim: “Motho ke motho ka batho” — a person is a person through other people. Let that be your guide, and you’ll leave with more than a stamp in your passport—you’ll leave with friends.

Frequently asked questions

What is the proper way to greet someone in Botswana?

Greet with a right-hand handshake, maintain eye contact, and say 'Dumela rra' (to a man) or 'Dumela mma' (to a woman). Ask 'O tsogile jang?' in the morning or 'O kae?' later. Shake each person in a group, starting with the eldest.

Is tipping expected in Botswana?

Tipping is appreciated but not compulsory. In restaurants, 10% is standard for good service. For taxis, round up the fare (e.g., give P40 for a P36 ride). Guides at reserves like Mokolodi appreciate P20–P50.

What should I wear in Gaborone, Botswana?

Dress modestly: men in collared shirts and trousers, women in knee-length skirts or loose trousers. Shorts are okay at casual venues like Mokolodi, but cover shoulders and knees for traditional or formal settings. Carry a light jacket for cool mornings.

Can I use my left hand for eating or passing things?

No, always use your right hand to eat, pass items, or give money—the left hand is considered unclean. Use both hands together when offering something to show extra respect.

What is the local currency and how much should I carry?

The currency is the Botswana pula (BWP), around P13.56 per US$. Carry small change for combis (P9), coffee (P30), and meals (P80–P150). ATMs give large notes, so ask for smaller denominations.

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