Getting around Lisbon: metros, taxis and passes

By Inês Carvalho, Portugal host 22 August 2026 7 min read

A classic tram navigating through a picturesque Lisbon street at dusk, capturing urban life and charm. — Photo by Stephan Saloth on Pexels

The first time you ride Tram 28, you’ll understand why Lisbon locals have a love-hate relationship with it. The yellow wooden car rattles up the Alfama hill, past laundry strung between Moorish walls, and for a moment you’re in a postcard. Then it stops dead, crammed with tourists, and a pickpocket’s hand drifts toward your pocket. That’s Lisbon in a nutshell: beautiful, chaotic, and best navigated with a bit of local savvy. Let me show you how we actually get around.

The metro: your underground backbone

Lisbon’s metro is clean, efficient, and the fastest way to cross the city. Four lines — Azul, Amarela, Verde, and Vermelha — connect the historic centre to the modern Parque das Nações, the airport, and the northern suburbs. Trains run every few minutes from 6:30 AM to 1 AM, and stations are marked with the iconic red M.

A single ride costs about €1.85–1.90 if you pay with a Viva Viagem card (€0.50 for the card itself, sold at any metro machine). But here’s the local trick: load Zapping credit instead. With Zapping, each ride drops to around €1.66–1.72, and the same card works on metro, buses, trams, and even the ferry to Cacilhas. The card lasts for years, so top it up with €10 and you’re set for a week.

Pro tip: the metro is your friend for airport transfers. The Vermelha line runs directly from Aeroporto station to Saldanha, where you switch to the Amarela or Azul. It’s about 20 minutes to downtown and costs the same as a single metro fare — a fraction of the €30–40 an airport taxi would charge.

Buses, trams, and the iconic Elevador

Buses fill the gaps the metro misses, especially in the hills. The 28 tram is the postcard route — it winds from Martim Moniz through Graça, Alfama, and Baixa, then climbs to Estrela. It’s charming, but it’s also a magnet for pickpockets and crowds. If you want the view without the hassle, take the 12 tram instead; it loops a shorter circuit around Alfama and is far less packed.

The Elevador de Santa Justa is another must-ride. This 1902 neo-Gothic lift connects the Baixa grid to the Carmo ruins and Bairro Alto heights. It costs about €5.30 return, or you can use your Zapping credit for a single ride. My advice: buy a 24-hour pass (around €6.30) if you’re doing more than two or three trips in a day — it covers all Carris buses, trams, and the metro.

Passes: the Navegante secret

If you’re staying more than a week, ditch the single tickets. The Navegante Municipal pass costs €30 per month and covers all metro, bus, and tram rides within Lisbon. For €40, the Navegante Metropolitano extends to the entire metro area — including Cascais, Sintra, and the south bank of the Tagus. That’s a steal compared to London or Paris.

To get one, you need to top up your Viva Viagem card with the pass at a metro station machine. You don’t need a residence card — just a passport for the registration. It’s the same card you’ve been using, so don’t lose it. Residents use this pass daily, and it’s the reason you’ll see locals swiping through gates while tourists fumble with paper tickets.

Taxis and ride-hailing: when you need the door-to-door

Taxis are plentiful, especially at the airport and Praça do Comércio. The base fare is around €3.50, and a short hop within the centre costs €6–8. But beware: street taxis sometimes quote flat rates for tourists. Always insist on the meter, or better, use an app like Uber or Bolt. They’re cheaper, drivers are reliable, and you see the price upfront. A typical ride from Chiado to Belém is about €8–10, and to the airport from the centre is €10–15 — again, far less than the tourist taxi flat rates.

For the hills — and there are many — a ride-hailing app is my guilty pleasure. If you’re heading from Alfama up to Castelo de São Jorge after a long day, spend the €4 and save your knees. The locals do it too, especially in the rain, when the cobbled calçada turns slippery as glass.

Walking: the real Lisbon experience

Here’s the truth: in the historic centre, walking beats everything. The metro stops at Baixa-Chiado, but the soul of Lisbon is on the winding streets of Alfama, the bohemian lanes of Bairro Alto, and the elegant squares of Baixa. You’ll stumble on miradouros like Miradouro de Santa Luzia or Miradouro da Senhora do Monte with views over the terracotta rooftops to the Tagus. You’ll pass A Brasileira in Chiado with its Fernando Pessoa statue, the oldest bookstore in the world, Livraria Bertrand, and the majestic Praça do Comércio with the Rua Augusta Arco.

Walking is also free. A pastel de nata at a neighbourhood bakery costs about €1.20, a bifana sandwich €2–3, and a coffee €2.57 — but the views cost nothing. From the castle down to the river, from Príncipe Real’s gardens to the LX Factory street art, a stroll is the best way to feel the city. Just watch the cobbles after rain and keep your hand on your wallet on Tram 28.

Planning your days: Baixa to Belém

For a classic day, start in Baixa, walk down Rua Augusta to the river, then catch a tram or train to Belém. The 15E tram runs along the riverfront, past the Museu Nacional do Azulejo, to the Jerónimos Monastery and Belém Tower. At Pastéis de Belém, the original custard tart bakery since 1837, you can watch the azulejo-clad walls and order a box of still-warm tarts. It’s about €1.20 each — a steal for the experience.

For the south bank, take a ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas. The crossing takes 10 minutes and uses your Zapping credit. From there, you can catch a bus to the Cristo Rei statue for panoramic views of the city and the 25 de Abril Bridge. Or, on a clear day, head to the Sado Estuary to spot the resident bottlenose dolphins — a ferry from Setúbal will get you there.

Final farewell

Lisbon is a city that rewards those who mix their modes. Take the metro for speed, the tram for nostalgia, a car for the hills, and your feet for everything else. Buy the Viva Viagem card, load €10, and treat the Navegante pass as your unlock for the region. Ignore the overtourism noise and the rising rents — the city is still affordable, still warm, and still full of saudade. As the fado singers say in Alfama, “quem te viu, quem te vê” — who saw you then, who sees you now. Go see it for yourself, the local way.

Frequently asked questions

How much is a single metro ride in Lisbon?

A single metro/bus/tram fare costs about €1.85–1.90 with a Viva Viagem card, but if you load Zapping credit it drops to around €1.66–1.72. The card itself costs €0.50.

What is the best travel pass for a week in Lisbon?

For a week, load Zapping credit on a Viva Viagem card or get a 24-hour pass (about €6.30). If you stay a month, the Navegante Municipal pass costs €30/month and covers all metro, bus, and tram in the city.

Is Tram 28 worth the hype?

It's iconic and scenic, but it's always packed and a pickpocket hotspot. If you want the view without the crowd, try Tram 12, which runs a shorter loop around Alfama.

How much does an Uber cost in Lisbon from the airport to the centre?

A typical Uber from the airport to downtown costs around €10–15, while a taxi might charge €30–40 if they give a flat rate. Always check the app or insist on the meter.

Can I use my Viva Viagem card on the ferry to Cacilhas?

Yes, the Viva Viagem card with Zapping credit works on the ferry from Cais do Sodré to Cacilhas. It's a great way to see the city from the river.

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