Moving to Turkey: visas, banking and SIM cards
The overcast sky over Ankara on the last Friday of August 2026 sits heavy but warm—14°C in the early morning, climbing to a pleasant 25°C by afternoon. In Kahramankazan, just north of the city, massive cauldrons of the district’s coğrafi işaretli kavurma are already simmering for the second Uluslararası Kavurma ve Gastronomi Festivali. That’s the thing about this city: it’s not just the bureaucratic heart of Turkey, it’s a place where seasonal rhythms still dictate life, even as ministries and defense campuses dominate the skyline. If you’re planning a longer stay here, the first week will be a whirlwind of paperwork, card swipes, and SIM activations—but get it right, and Ankara rewards you with a livable, functional base that’s far less chaotic than Istanbul.
Entry and Residence: The 90-Day Countdown
First, the good news: if you hold a Western passport, you likely enter Turkey visa-free for up to 90 days. Check the current list on evisa.gov.tr before you fly—some nationalities need a quick online e-Visa, also typically valid for 90 days within a 180-day period. But here’s the catch: if you plan to stay longer, you must apply for a residence permit (ikamet) through the e-ikamet.goc.gov.tr portal within those first 90 days. Don’t procrastinate; the online application queues can stretch, and your appointment at the Provincial Directorate of Migration Management (Göç İdaresi) might land after your initial 90 days expire, which creates headaches.
You’ll also need a tax number (Vergi Kimlik Numarası) from your local tax office (vergi dairesi). It’s a simple form and a same-day issuance, but you’ll need it for everything from opening a bank account to signing a rental contract. Pro tip: take copies of your passport and residence permit application receipt everywhere—landlords, utility companies, and even some cafés ask for them when setting up contracts.
Banking: Your Money, Your IBAN
Ankara runs on Turkish liras (TRY), and as of mid-2026, the exchange rate is roughly 32.8 TRY per US dollar—a figure that moves fast with inflation hovering near 35%. That means your budget will stretch further than in Istanbul, but prices are climbing quickly; a simple transit fare jumps from 35 to 40 TL on 23 August 2026, just before you arrive. So open your bank account early.
Head to a branch with your passport, tax number, proof of address (your rental contract plus a utility bill), and either your residence permit or the official application receipt. The most foreigner-friendly banks in Ankara:
- Ziraat Bankası – state-owned, the widest ATM network, and surprisingly patient with English speakers at central branches.
- İş Bankası – solid digital banking and efficient staff; their branch on Atatürk Bulvarı is a good bet.
- Garanti BBVA – excellent mobile app in English, strong expat services.
- Akbank and Yapı Kredi – also reliable, but branch staff may be less fluent in English outside Çankaya.
You’ll get a debit card and an IBAN. For daily transfers, use FAST or EFT—instant and free. For international wire transfers, SWIFT works, but fees add up, so consider a multi-currency online account as a backup. Also, keep your Turkish card linked to an account with a few thousand lira for autopay on utilities—it saves you from late fees.
SIM Cards and Staying Connected
Getting a Turkish SIM is straightforward: bring your passport to any Turkcell, Vodafone, or Türk Telekom store, buy a prepaid SIM, and they’ll register your phone’s IMEI number to your ID. The costs are modest—you can get a starter pack with data for around 500–700 TL—but here’s the fine print: foreign-registered IMEIs are only allowed to operate for a limited period (typically 120 days) before you must either re-register, pay a fee, or switch to a Turkish phone. If you’re staying on a residence permit, you can apply to register your own IMEI at the tax office (PTT) for a one-time fee, which is worth it if you’re not planning to buy a local device.
Ankara’s internet is fast—you’ll get 4.5G coverage everywhere, even in the metro tunnels. For mapping and transit, download Moovit—it’s the best for EGO buses and the metro, and its English interface is reliable.
Getting Around: AnkaraKart and the Metro
Your first transit purchase should be an AnkaraKart—the reloadable smart card that works on the metro (M1, M2, M3), the Ankaray light rail, and EGO city buses. Buy it at metro-station kiosks, load it with cash, and tap away. As of late August 2026, a single ride costs 40 TL (it rose from 35 on 23 August), and a monthly full-fare pass is around 1,200 TL (student passes are about 650 TL). If you’re staying near the center, you may not need a car; the metro covers most key districts—Kızılay, Ulus, Çankaya—and Başkentray runs east–west for longer commutes.
Where to Live: Districts and Rentals
Ankara is a city of distinct neighborhoods, each with its own vibe. For a longer stay, location matters more than square footage:
- Çankaya – Upscale, diplomatic, central. Think Atakule Tower, Kocatepe Mosque, and the presidency. Monthly rent for a modest 1-bedroom outside the very center: around ₺25,000–30,000 (about $800).
- Kavaklıdere – The café and nightlife strip around Tunalı Hilmi and Kuğulu Park. Rents are higher—closer to ₺30,000–35,000.
- Gaziosmanpaşa (GOP) – The fanciest, most exclusive area. If you’re on a diplomatic or tech salary, this is where you’ll find luxury apartments and boutique shops.
- Balgat / Yenimahalle – More affordable, well-connected on the metro, with a growing digital-nomad scene around Balgat’s cafés and coworking spaces. Rent here can be ₺20,000–25,000.
- Ulus – Historic, gritty, and cheap. You’ll live above a bazaar and near the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations, but be ready for noise and older buildings.
When signing a lease, expect to pay a deposit (usually one month’s rent) and a brokerage fee. A good realtor will help with the tax office and utility registrations—ask around in expat Facebook groups for recommendations.
First-Week Logistics: Registration and Daily Life
Beyond the ikamet, you should register your address at your local muhtarlık (neighborhood office)—it’s a quick walk with your passport and rental contract, and it’s required for some services. Then, sort out your utilities: electricity (AYEDAŞ), water (ASKI), and internet (Türk Telekom or Turkcell Superonline). Internet packages run around ₺500–800 per month for fiber, but fiber coverage is patchy in older buildings—check with your landlord.
For food, you’ll find local lokantas (eateries) serve a filling meal for about ₺490—try Ankara tava, a lamb stew with bulgur, for ₺350–450. A cappuccino at a café like Verte Coffee House on Tunalı will cost around ₺187. If you’re cooking, a liter of milk is ₺55, a loaf of bread ₺45—groceries are cheap, but don’t expect Western-style convenience store snacks everywhere.
Ankara’s cultural life is a pleasant surprise—the Museum of Anatolian Civilizations is world-class (free or cheap entry), and Anıtkabir is free and moving, but remember it’s closed Mondays. For weekend escapes, take EGO bus 157 to Eymir Lake or Mogan Lake for a picnic—the reed beds are full of migratory birds.
A Note on Safety and Demonstrations
Ankara is generally safe and functional, but avoid Kızılay Square during large demonstrations—police frequently use tear gas, and you don’t want to get caught in a crowd while jet-lagged. Also steer clear of the intercity bus terminal (AŞTİ/otogar) at night. Otherwise, the city is as safe as any European capital; just use street smarts.
This first week will be intense—paperwork in Turkish, queues at government offices, and a lot of walking under the occasional late-summer sun. But once your ikamet is in hand, your bank card works, and your SIM connects, you’ll find Ankara’s steppe-bordered calm a perfect counterweight to the chaos of modern Turkey. And on the weekend? Join the crowds at Sincan Park for the free Sagopa Kajmer concert, or sit at a café in Kuğulu Park watching the swans—this city gets under your skin.
Frequently asked questions
Do I need a visa to move to Turkey from the US or Europe?
Most Western nationalities enter visa-free for up to 90 days. For longer stays, apply for a residence permit (ikamet) via e-ikamet.goc.gov.tr within those 90 days. Check the nationality list on evisa.gov.tr.
How do I open a bank account in Turkey as a foreigner?
Visit a branch of Ziraat Bankası, İş Bankası, Garanti BBVA, Akbank, or Yapı Kredi with your passport, tax number (from a vergi dairesi), proof of address, and residence permit or application receipt. You'll get a debit card and IBAN.
Can I use my foreign phone in Turkey with a local SIM?
Yes, you can buy a prepaid SIM from Turkcell, Vodafone, or Türk Telekom with your passport. Your phone's IMEI must be registered; foreign IMEIs work for a limited period (around 120 days) before you need to pay a fee or re-register.
What is the transportation card in Ankara?
It's called AnkaraKart, a reloadable tap card for the metro (M1/M2/M3), Ankaray, and EGO buses. Buy it at metro kiosks. A single ride is 40 TL as of late August 2026. Monthly passes are available for heavy commuters.
How much is rent in Ankara in 2026?
A modest 1-bedroom outside the city center rents for around ₺25,000–30,000 per month (about $800–$900). In central districts like Çankaya or Kavaklıdere, expect higher—roughly ₺30,000–35,000.
